Save your $$ and simply find something that will fit how you plan to use it.
Always shoot for a little more than what you'll need,, just for the fact that you will eventually want more later... more storage, more capacity, length, horsepower, rod holders, ect... The salt sportfish game is not cheap
The market is pretty good right now and some good deals to be found, but dont jump on the first one you see.. have as many options as you can on your plate as you can. Then create a "short-list" once you've narrowed down at least 5 rig's your willing to move on.
When shopping.. dont fool around kickin tires, be prepared to buy. Saves alot of grief and also lets the private party/dealer know your there to buy/serious.
if out kickin tires... simply tell them.. I'm kickin tires to see what's out here and get an idea of something I may be interested in or what's out here and available.
When you get the line - what will it take to get you in it today... walk away, come back later.
Watch your target boats on the internet (if shoppin online).. watch for how desperate the seller may seem to want to unload the boat by making price reductions... I've seen alot of folks in the last year reduce their asking prices weekly/monthly.
Most important, dont go into a deal upside down.. dont take over someone's $$ mistake. If the boat your looking at is what you want, but 10K more than what's selling for in the market on average... pass on it.
Call your bank/credit union and ask them what the loan value is on the boat(s) your looking at.
Dont be afraid to make a "low-ball" offer... it can/may be a little insulting to the seller,, but you are the buyer. It's starts negotiations. Everyone prices up their rig's a little to recoup some exspense on things replaced, added (i.e. electronics), or even to recoup repairs... so take that into consideration as well.
Not trying to dog brokers, brokers have to feed families too, but personally I wont buy from a broker. A seller will take their rig to a broker to sell and advertise for them. The seller has his bottom line. The broker will add his fee's on top of that... which can be considerable depending on how much $$ is involved. On a boat under 80K... I'd skip the broker as you'd find a better deal with a private party or responsible dealership.
Your gameplan should be:
A: what I'm I using the boat for? Fresh/salt/offshore/nearshore/bay-flats/gulf stream
B: how will I use the boat? Purely fishin/cruisin and fishin/family friendly/combat fishin
C: what trade offs are you willing to live with? smaller livewells/less systems/older electronics/a little less boat but higher quality
D: Buy used? or new? (big money difference) buying used have it surveyed - dont trust the seller or the dealer/broker - have the systems/hull/motor/trailer checked out by a competent surveyor/or trusted marine mechanic and condition the sale on such.
if new.. boat is under warranty... but you can still have a new boat surveyed for added piece of mind on construction on stuff you cant see!
E: Be ready to strike on a deal - after you've seen the boat and if to your liking - dont make an offer on a boat that you havent seen yet. (When selling my boat recently - I had low ball offers from all over the place, but not one person had seen the boat... I simply told them to keep looking and best of luck. I wasn't desperate to sell, I held out and got fair price on my rig. In my point of view.. someone who offers and hasn't seen the boat or taken the time to see it... that tells me they're just out kickin tires and arent serious).
F: Arrange for pre-approval once you've settled in on a vessel your wanting to buy.
That way, it's just a phone call to the bank, a handshake with the party selling, and a signing of the bill of sale. Can also be used to a limited extent in negotiations. Example - 'well I'm pre-approved right now for $XX,XXX.00' I can buy it today if your willing to accept this offer.
G: Make fair offer's but start on the lower end (i.e. the dreaded "low ball" offer) (see E
if you've physically seen the boat, when low balling, you can point out why your offering at a lower amount - maybe a failed pump, cracked thru hulls, trailer damage, tires on trailer needing replaced, bent or damaged railing, Ttop, etc...
if the seller is asking close to retail fair market.. then the condition of systems/motor/trailer/boat should reflect that.
H: if buying used - save some wiggle/buying room on extended warranty (sometimes a few hundred dollars to extend the hull warranty to transfer over to a 2nd owner) and can be up to a couple grand to purchase an extended warranty on motor(s).. of course depending on the size HP rating of motor(s) and company. Yamaha for example is very good at providing a extended warranty to 2nd owners, but it does factor in to the overall cost. You'll have to research that prior to signing a purchase agreement.
I: On water test of boat/systems/motor - only do this if you are willing to purchase the boat now. People selling dont like joy riders. Folks take alot of time off and arrangements to get the boat to a location where both seller and buyer are there at the same time. This is expense and time thing.... so on the water test should be the final step in the purchase prior to signing. If all works as advertised... once she's on the trailer and headed back,,, you just bought the boat!
Anything not working to satisfaction during the water test.. needs to be negotiated or agreed to be fixed or not prior to purchase. Most sellers are happy to accomodate.. a $200 part shouldnt hold up the deal.....
The most important thing overall is, research all you can, get first hand experiences via boat groups and researching as many forums as you can, and be happy with what you finally decide on, have fun use it as much as you can and maintain it the best you can. Treat it right and it'll treat you right.
Things to consider cost wise:
Electronics (GPS, VHF, Sonar, Radar, XM Weather subscription)
Accessories and safety gear (Signal kits, ditch bag, PFD's, anchor and line, bow lines..)
Maintenace costs - oil changes, plug changes, lubricants, tires, bearings, lights for trlr and boat
Cost of operation - fuel/oil consumption, bait, ice, drinks, insurance, ramp fees, dock fees
Give you an example and as a general rule of thumb, 25 ft center console single engine boat with 150 gallon fuel capacity:
A 25 ft center console to go to the lake for a day family fishin
$20 food/ice/drink
$5 ramp/park fee
$8 live bait
$6 2 stroke oil
$41 fuel for boat (15 gallons burnt at $2.75 a gallon)
$35 fuel for truck ( 60 mile round trip from house to lake)
about a $115 dollar day out on the lake
Offshore trip in same boat on average 50 mile one way run offshore:
$165 boat fuel (60 gallons @ $2.75)
$20 2 stroke oil aprox
$100 dead baits
$20 for 200 lbs of ice (12 ea. 16 lb bags)
$100 fuel for truck round trip to the coast from Fayetteville to Wrightsville
$30 food/water/drinks
Roughly $435 operating costs to go fish for a day off the coast
the above isnt factoring in any maintenance costs, licenses (tuna permits, salt license, ect..), incidentals like sunblock and all that...
Hope that helps ya a little! if you have any questions,, just give a holla!
Thanx for your service and pass that on to your commrades as well! Y'all are doing excellent work in Afghanistan, God's speed to all of you!