This thread is dedicated to documenting my Old Town Guide 119 canoe modifications. I’ve greatly appreciated the threads I’ve found to help me decide how to modify mine. Here are a few links that inspired me …
Tricking out a solo canoe for fishing | RiverBassin.com
Georgia River Fishing :: View topic - My New Boat
Crème de la Crème of our Guide 119/KayNoe Fleet – “Ole Hooker Signature Series”
I too scrapped the stock seat and installed a folding padded plastic molded seat from Wise. I didn’t make my seat swivel. Although my setup is likely cheaper, my primary reason was stability. The only time I find myself losing balance in this canoe is when I try to turn around, but overall the stability is good in this location. The front edge of the seat is very close to the center point of the canoe and the seat is just below the gunwales. I reused the front hole from the stock seat mount and it became my rear hole on the new seat mount. The new seat is supported only with two pieces of wood (~1.5”x~1.5” cedar) and is dropped by ~4.5” sections of schedule 40 PVC. Why cedar? It was laying around from a previous raised planter project. The seat base mounting bolts are on a 5 -1/4” square, so my seat supports are ~5 -1/4” apart. A set of 5/16” x7” carriage bolts hangs the wood from the gunwales. I recessed the washers/nuts so the tip of the bolt is flush with the bottom edge of the wood. I also recessed the stock Wise seat bolt hardware.
I had to make the back of the seat (or the entire seat) removable to get it on top of my Honda Civic (Yakima Rack) due to clearance issues with my roof. Since I went with a non-swivel seat, the original seat back pins were knocked out with a punch and replaced with stainless bolts trimmed & drilled for pins. With the back off, the highest point of the seat is virtually flush with the gunwales.
Anchor system consists of ¼” braided nylon rope, 6” nylon cleats, and clam cleats. The only screw eyes I used were on the gunwales. Bow and stern have penetrations for the anchor rope using trimmed threaded irrigation pipe risers and trimmed sections of threaded PVC pipe couplings. I used a ¾” paddle bit to drill the holes. The black irrigation fitting is locked in place on each side, no need for gluing in place. I tried to make them as low profile as I could so they wouldn’t get beat up and crack. However, I think two risers and two couplings were less than $3, so replacement is cheap if they wear out or break. I have ~30 ft of range on the front rope and ~20ft on the rear. I doubt I need that much on either end, but it fits ok on the 6” cleats.
Rod holder is removable. It’s simply a piece of lightweight 1x4 white pine cut to fit the gunwales with nylon pad eyes and I just bungee it to the bow. I also have pad eyes on the thwart to strap a bungee over the rods during rough water.
The thwarts are in the stock location. I had the blue Rubbermaid container before I bought the canoe and it fits perfectly in the stern. I can also fit my Paddleboy ATC cart in there as well.
I have a few dry bags to store my camera and other goodies. I don’t have a kayak paddle yet, but honestly the one I’m borrowing seems to be more trouble than it’s worth. It’s also a much wetter ride.
I need to find a good front anchor and make my rear drag chain. For the front I want something rubber coated and preferably something that’s small and won’t flop around much when it’s up. I also need to paint my white plastic parts black and seal my new wood.
Some helpful Parts Info
- ½” Schedule 40 PVC Pipe
- 1” Schedule 40 PVC threaded couplings
- ½” irrigation pipe risers (threaded black plastic fitting)
- 5/16” x 7” carriage bolts / nuts / washers
- Nylon Sea Dog clam cleats (part number 0209)
- Nylon 6” standard cleats
- Nylon pad eyes
- 60’ of ¼” nylon braided rope
- Wise padded plastic seat – Walmart.com