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Fly lines

6K views 62 replies 14 participants last post by  RouseD 
#1 ·
Just wanted to hear some discussion on WF floating fly lies. I have been using Scientific Angler brand, and the line costs about $25. Forgot the name. One of my friends uses Cortland 333, which is about the same price I think. Wondering if anyone likes the slightly higher priced lines better than either of these. If so, what floating fly lines do you like best? If you use a higher priced line, which of those l;ines do you like best, and is it worth it just to get out 10 more feet?
 
#29 ·
I'll use a fly line conditioner occasionally, but not nearly as much as I should. It is the Accardo brand. For floating lines. Anyone else use this? Not sure if it is good or bad. All my fly lines seem to float OK, I use the dressing to clean my lines so they will flow out of the guides better. It seems to help, but nothing major.
 
#30 ·
Since I fish both fresh and salt water, what floating fly lines do most think would be the best for that, in the economy and a little higher priced lines?

I'll use this same thread to ask about fly line backing also. I know very little about this.
 
#32 ·
I was looking through some items I had bought from a friend a while back, and found some vinyl coated lead core line (Cortland LLC-13 material). It says on the package that it can be used for building shooting tapers, sink tips or weighted leaders. Anyone ever use this? I was thinking about, since I already have it, making a sink tip, using that, and some slip on leader loops that I also have. It is rare that I ever fly fish deep, but have seen the time it would come in handy. I am planning on making a 5 foot, and a 10 foot sink tip, and use the leader loops to add it on to my WFF line.
I would also like to know if all the Dacron backings are hollow . Found some of that, and have made a loop to loop conection to use later.
 
#34 ·
Rouse D...here's my thoughts on your questions (yes, I'm taking a break from unpacking and reorganizing from the show.)

I think any of the name brands of floating line are good (Cortland, Sci. Anglers, Rio, and Royal Wulff). I have had some less expensive "no-name" lines snap when apparently there was only pvc covering a braided core for strength and I've seen some where a nail knot would cut thru the plastic coating much too easily. Those companies lines in the 28-40 range seem to be pretty good and consistent quality (Air Cel, 333, Mainstream...). I'm alway going opt for a more expensive line when I can...at least 40-55 and usually $65+. Some less expensive lines have apparently done fine but the "unknown" manufacturer make me a tad uncomfortable . Lines designated as "saltwater" may have a tougher coating and could be a benefit in some salty situations (oyster rocks?) ...but freshwater lines seem to work well in the salt.

Keeping any of them clean is a major benefit...soap and water...or the line companies line cleaner....

I think all the braided dacron backings are hollow and that's pretty standard stuff for most folks. Some like Power Pro and Master Braid are not hollow, I don't think. Braided loops usually are made from a tougher material than the backing. Cortland sells a product called Braided Mono which is often used for making loops or for covering splices in fly line. It would be my first choice for putting loops on LC13...or the factory made loops that come with heat shrink tubing to cover the end of the braid. If putting braided loops on, I wouldn't rely on the "chinese handcuff" principle and heat shrink for security. I alway super glue where the backsplice meets the fly line...and I add a nail knot over the braid on the line for extra security. LC13 and similar are often used for making sink tips and sinking heads.
 
#35 ·
Thanks so much Richard. I was wondering if the difference between fresh, and salt water lines was in the bouyancy of each, sine salt water is more dense, but what you are saying makes more sense. I had thoughtm abouty adding a spot of Super Glue gel to my loop. I just made a loop to see if i could do it. Haven't used it on anything yet. It was amazing at how tight it gets. I tested it to the limit, but was wonfering if it would be better if I added the glue.
One other question to anyone. When adding the Cortland leader loops to the vinyl coated lead core line., do I need to rough up the vinyl a bit before slipping the loop over the end of that line?
I know I am all over the place with all this, but I am learning a lot from all of it.
 
#37 ·
Richard, the Cortland open braid loops is what I have. The grip of these is really amazing, but a little drop of Super Glue at the far end of the loop would be a good idea, I think. Looks to me it would stop the loop from ever slipping, and give it less of a chance of ever sliiping off, which I don't think it will do anyway. Doesn't hurt to add a bit of insurance. I've seen so many vids on youtube about this, and I really didn't know much about it, that I am unsure about the exact product they were working with, but I think it was making loops with pieces of Dacron backing. They were roughing, or scuffing the surface of the fly line before slipping their home made leader loops on. I would not make one and use it unless I knew what exactly they were working with. Will have to go back and look again. I could have gotten it mixed up with something else. I will say this about the leader loop I made out of Dacron backing. Just to test it, I did not add any glue to it at all. Nothing I did could pull the loop back throuh itself. Just guessing, I pulled about 2 inches of the Dacron back through to make a loop. I'll keep testing, and run it by one of my friends who have been fly fishing much longer than I have to get another opinion, before ever thinking about using it.
 
#38 ·
Back to the drawing board on what uses I'll have, if any, for using the Dacron backing for leader loop slip ons. Saw enough on youtube to explain what Chiefly Fly'n was trying to explain to me. No problem you you at all Richard. It just sometimes takes a lot for this old head of mine to understand.
 
#40 ·
Just looking at different options for backing to fly line, fly line to leader attachments. The nail knot has to be very good because it has been used for a long time. The transition will be better with some of the newer methods, but nothing drastic. Even so, I have seen in some of the vids that there can be probs with the slip on leader loops if there is some fraying in the loop itself. That can cause the leader to pull from an area in the loop that could cause the chinese handcuff to loosen up. In the vid I saw on that, super glue was used at a couple of points on the leader loop to prevent that. I am new at fly fishing (4 years), so I want to try all that I can. I may just end up using the nail knot later anyway.
 
#41 ·
Most of the time, when rigging a customer's line, I'll follow the method described by Brush Creek...using typically 30 pound mono...attaching it to the front/tip of the line with a nail knot (using a nail knot tool...) and then tying a perfection loop 2 or 3 inches in front. Good fly line will stand up to the compression and "cutting" of the turns of the nail knot when tightened. Often cheap fly line will not.

For the backing to line connection in fresh water, I almost always just use a nail knot to attach the backing to the fly line. For saltwater, or when there's a good chance a big fish will pull you into the backing, I use a loop to loop connection. I fold the rear of the line over to make a small (1/4-1/2") loop in the line and secure that with 2 nail knots, or most often a nail knot covered by "whipping" fly tying thread in its bobbin, over the nail knot... Then make a big loop (8"-10") in the backing using a Bimini Twist or Surgeons Loop...and slide the coil of fly line thru the backing loop for the loop to loop connection.

Other folks will knot the backing to the line using an Albright Knot...a long time standard.

Braided loops for connecting backing to line will work...but for saltwater I tend to like a stronger connection at that spot, like those described. For connecting shooting heads and sink tips to fly line and running line, the braided loops tend to make a smaller diameter connection and work well if secured with super glue and a nail knot on top of the braid...
 
#43 ·
Hmmm...may be splitting hairs here. I suspect either would be just fine for fishing waters in NC. And, for only $9 more I guess I'd give the nod to the Rio Gold. I had a couple of customers that were unhappy that their Rio Gold tip would start to sink (which may or may not have been a quality issue). Company was good about replacing lines if customer complained and mailed line back. However, I think I heard significantly more praise of Gold than otherwise.

Mainsteam is a nice line for $40 and has what used be referred to as the Clouser compound taper...which does nice for bigger bugs and heavier flies like Clouser minnows...and some would say for loading rods with shorter lengths of line...like on small trout stream fishing. But I think the Rio has a sorta similar weight distribution (but may not be shown correctly in the line profile on Rio's website) and I'm not sure you'd actually be able to tell much difference in casting....so I lean toward the premium Gold...even if last year's version.
 
#45 ·
BrushCreek, what was your reasons for not liking the Mainstream line? I know very little about controlling my loops and such. Never had any lessons for doing that. I have gotten much better with controlling my line when I want it to go under limbs and other obstacles. That just comes from a touchy/ feelly type thing that I have developed on my own. Can't explain how the way I do that works. Just works for me. I'll most likely go with the Gold on my 4 wt rod for now, and see how that goes.
 
#47 ·
The Rio gold shoots much better and seems to unroll the leader better. I couldn't shoot the mainstream well, it had a lot of memory, didn't float as well, and didn't have the welded loops. Just my opinion... Keep in mind that I have only been Fly fishing for three years, but do it at least every other weekend. I'm still a hack and get skunked, but there are days when it all comes together and I am on top of my game. I was skunked once a year and a half ago when my buddy (fly fishing for the very first time) slayed them with a $50 dollar Walmart outfit and a hand me down parachute Adams. We had a blast.
 
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