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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone I could use your help. I recently bought the above boat for 3 hundred from a guy I work with. It was obvious that he had rebuilt the transom at some point. This is my first boat and I'm very new to all this so bear with me if you can. This particular boat has about 18 inch sides from floor to top of gunnels. The wood it looks like he's used to rebuild the transom is a single 2 x 8, that runs horizontally across the top of the transom. It also looks like he has put a horizontal brace across the back of the transom to use to support the lower end of the 2 x 8. Is this the correct way of replacing the transom, or should the wood go all the way down the stern side of the boat to the floor? If it is incorrect, will this fix work, or do I need to redo it. There also appears to be a crack on the right side of the transom which is about an inch long, at first it looked like he had cut it to bend the aulminum up to put the 2 X 8 in there, then bent it back down, but now I know thats not the case. The crack is just left of the corner brace that runs from the stern to the right gunnell, as your looking toward the bow of the boat. I have some fairly heavy aluminum plating ( 1/4 inch ) that I can use for extra bracing. I really wanna fix this right though. The transom appears very sturdy, but I want to be sure. I plan on putting a 20 hp mercury on it, and it weighs probably around 80 lbs i guess? Also, the coast guard rating is gone off of this boat, would a 20 horse mercury be too much for this boat? Its a 14 foot lowe, 36 inches wide at the floor. Any help you all could give me would surely be appreciated.
 

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I would feel more comfortable with the bracing going all the way to the floor in one solid piece (3\4" plywood). It will make the transom stronger and prevent flex from the torque of the motor. The crack shouldn't be a problem a good welding shop should be able to take care of that easily, just weld it up and you should be good to go, from the way you described it. And you should have no problems with the 20 hp outboard I had a 25 johnson on a 14' and it worked fine.
 

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Red X Angler
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I agree with CFF. I would be happier with a 3/4 treated ply painted with enamel on both sides and all ends (helps seal the wood against water)
First have a welding shop weld the cracks then add the new ply. Sounds like what has been done would work for now but with minimal expense and a little time you can do a sound and attractive proper fix. Still $300 was a decent price. 20hp should be fine.
Is it a riveted or welded boat?
oh, and WELCOME!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its a riveted boat. We've already done some work to it. I should tell the whole story, I think i got a really good deal. I bought the boat, trailer, older trolling motor, tojo livewell, and two pedestal seats for 320 dollars. It looks like they had sealed the rivets up with jb weld. I used a die grinder and wire brush to remove it and resealed all the rivets with new jb weld. Then I primed the bare spots with self etching primer, and painted the boat with an oil based enamel paint. Lot more to do though before I can start stacking them slab crappies in the livewell!!
 

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Red X Angler
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Oh yeah! you did fine with that! Show us some pics!!
 

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Good deal on the boat. All boats take some maintenance. Take your time and go thru it good and fix anything that you think needs fixing or needs fome tweeking. ;)

Go ahead and fix the transom also, get the motor tuned up, put some fresh paint on the whole boat, fill with poles and a SMile.

Better to go ahead and knock everything out now, little later the fishing will be the bomb and hate to have to stop fishing to fix a leak.:mad:

OH yea , welcome aboard

Tight lines <*)))))>{
 
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