[mikeski]

I spent lunch troubleshooting. I found that one cylinder was not firing. I swapped the leads on the power packs and the problem did not move. So, electrical ok.

Pulled the hose to the bad cyl. Gas pumped out the hose. Put the compressor on the carb and blew threw. Other cyl now working. Joy.

I will run and sit the motor till I can get out again later this week. Hopefully before the weekend.

mikeski

 

[mikeski]

I was looking at the bottom end when the motor was running in a tub and saw some water flowing from a place I don't expect to. Water pump seal??


http://vid296.photobucket.com/album...E-A353-48EC-90AE-69D5ABA841BE_zpsimmbqmzv.mp4

mikeski

 

[Mechanic Bob]

Are you using the correct, OEM, specified spark plugs? If the manufacturer calls for Champion, use Champion. If they call for NGK, use NGK.

 

[mikeski]

Are you using the correct, OEM, specified spark plugs? If the manufacturer calls for Champion, use Champion. If they call for NGK, use NGK.

Plugs are the correct ones. I checked the gap and it was narrow. I gapped them to .040.

It still runs rough. Like skipping or missing when giving and holding throttle.

With having to blow out that carb I may just order the carb kits and rebuild them both. And the water pump kit I guess. While running it after these changes I was looking and more water comes out when you give it throttle.

mikeski

 

[jcole]

I don't think that "leak" is a problem. You may want to replace the water pump just for piece of mind.

 

[sundrop]

water comes out in several places on those because it also cools the exhaust passing through the foot. The most important thing is the pee hole being strong and if you can lay your hand on the top cylinder after its been running a few minutes. If its too hot to touch your water is not getting up to it enough. If you take the water pump impeller be sure to get a propane torch to heat up all around your bolts well so they don't break off. Just propane, a plumbers torch setup, not acetylene/oxy!! too hot.

 

[mikeski]

Thanks guys, this is all new to me. It pees strong, steady and quickly. Wish I could say the same. hahahahaha. I will keep track of where the water comes from for a bit and see what it does.

 

[mikeski]

Hmmm, are we all avoiding the carb thing?

Is there something else that could cause it to stumble or miss or whatever? I was thinking maybe if there is a spark advance setup. But I have not had this unless it's way off.

MIKE

 

[jcole]

Carb kits are cheap . Go ahead and rebuild the carbs and go from there.

 

[sundrop]

its carbs. don't start fooling with spark/timing adjustments or carb syncing, you will end up with a mess. New carb kits come with ethanol friendly parts too. http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/GLM40560/OB-OMCCARBPARTS

 

[JTruckner]

How old is the motor? I had a 59 Buccaneer motor ( made by Johnson ) that shorted one plug at idle so it idled on one cylinder. As you pushed the throttle forward the second cylinder would cut in. I disabled it so it ran on both cylinders. Edit...Missed the part where you got it working.

 

[mikeski]

its carbs. don't start fooling with spark/timing adjustments or carb syncing, you will end up with a mess. New carb kits come with ethanol friendly parts too. http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/pc/GLM40560/OB-OMCCARBPARTS

Ha, just completed the order.

mikeski

 

[sundrop]

all those little rods on the side of the carbs, leave it all in one piece when you take them off. That is your synchronization. It is usually where it needs to be to keep the butterflies on both carbs in sync. Be gentle with the plastic clips and bushings as well.
One less thing to deal with on the reinstall. Be real careful at the angle the fuel line is in under the carbs too, there is very little room and too much of a tight bend collapses the hose. I don't know why Evinrude/Johnson made it a straight connector instead of a 90*.

 

[mikeski]

I started reading about the carb rebuild and adjustment and all. When I was reading about the idle adjustment it talked about turning one way till it stumbles and then turn it back to it's highest rpm and repeat for the bottom. Ha, well, that sounds allot like what I got going on. Out to the boat.

Needless to say the idle adjustment was not up to my spec. Or anyone else for that matter. After fiddling with idle adjustment for a bit I had the idle as high as it would go. Now it's high. And I can tell from playing with my dual carb 6 cyl TR6 that the carbs are out of balance. When I looked at the butterfly adjustment on the pair they are adjusted the opposite way from each other. So one of the butterflies is open more than the other. And you can tell when you give it the gas. It was getting late.

So, tomorrow I will make a basic adjustment to get the butterflies close. Then start the balancing act of getting the carbs balanced with the idle at a proper level. I have an air intake flow meter from having to do this with my TR6. The latch is in the way on the bottom cyl. I hope after I remove it I will be able to get the meter on there with minimal backyard engineering. The meter sure helps with the balancing act. (You set one carb and then match the readings on the other)

The changes so far have been very positive. I am expecting that after the carbs are balanced and adjusted all will be well in my universe.

mikeski

 

[sundrop]

ah so you've played with multi carbs before , that's good, you can handle this deal then just fine Most have no idea how or where to start.. I don't have the meter so I have to do it old school. I set one butterfly wide open (flat) then the other. Then fire it up and feel the vacuum by hand over the throats of the carbs. usually if you get those butterflies flat very little else has to be done but a little idle adjustment.

 

[mikeski]

Well that was loads of fun. I believe I have a running motor. It hangs on at idle, it's much smoother with the tab speed control and it's smoothed out in the upper rpms. JOY.....

Low idle was well off the mark. The top carb idle had been off like 1 turn past prime. The bottom was under the starting point of 1.5 turns out. There is less than a 1/4 turn diff between the two now.

The balance, hahahahah. On my air flow meter one cyl was just over 10 and the other was just under 7. Poor thing was beating the crap out of itself.

I went through the low idle and balancing a few times and it seems to have settled on a flow of 8 on both cylinders. I also checked it at higher RPM where I could read the flow at 15 and the other cly was right there with it.

I love it. No stumbling with minimal vibrations at idle. Now I just need to get back out to the lake for a test.

Oh, I did get off the water ears and put the bottom in a tub of water so I had appropriate back pressure.

mikeski...

 

[sundrop]

great work Mike!! you never know how someone else has been messing with a "project" when you buy it..

 

[mikeski]

Was not expecting this much of a project. The motor part that is. I heard it run. Just did not know it was not running correctly. My lack of knowledge and desire. oops. But it really just cost me time to get it running properly. No cash. I did order the carb kits. They can sit for a little as I see how things go.

It sure is nice to hear it purr now when you start it. Joy....

mikeski

 

[mikeski]

Took a long lunch to test ride the boat. Runs much better. Starts and Idles nicely. Still has no oomph.

Time for a timing light and tach to see what's going on there. I took a look and the advance lever moves with the throttle. The only way to tell if the advance is working is to hit it with a timing light or pull the flywheel and inspect.

And the carb rebuild kits are in the mail.

mikeski

 

[sundrop]

do the carbs before you do anything else.. seriously sounds like high speed jets plugged up.