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Discussion Starter #1
I want to switch to braid. A buddy recommended leaving some mono on the spool to cut down on cost.

Anybody do this? How much mono should I strip off?

Also, i don't have a full spool of mono right now due to tangles, changing baits, etc.

How do you know when spool is "full" (as I add the braid on)?

Thanks in advance, this site is a ton of help.


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I know on baitcasters BASS AOY Aaron Martins does the reverse and puts braid backing on his mono reels saying it helps the spool cast farther. So I would assume you would want to keep braid throughout. Once you have the braid backing (upfront cost) you can then just replace what you need in the future like you are thinking. Braid won't fray on you like mono and you can typically use it a lot longer and just cut off a 6' section or so when it does get frayed and keep on fishing.
 

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Your buddy made a very good suggestion.

"Anybody do this? How much mono should I strip off?"
Yes. I do. From a full spool, I strip off 1/2 cast length (15 yards of .012 dia) of mono in order to be able to put on a full cast length (30 yards of .006 dia) of braid.

"How do you know when spool is "full" (as I add the braid on)?"

A spool is full of braid at the same point it is full of mono - 'tween 1/16 - 1/8 inch from the spool rim.

I also put 4-6' of the mono back on the business end of the braid to use as a leader.

Good Luck,
RW
 

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Red X Angler
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Use mono backing to half spool the reel. Tie a double uni knot to attach the braid (you can look up the knot if you don't know how to do this). Top it off with braid. Use a palomar knot for tying on your lure, hook, etc.

You will never go back to mono for most applications....
 

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I do something similar to what your friend recommended. I use either old mono or old braid for backing and use about 75 yards of braid. Sometimes, after using it for a while, I remove it, reverse it, and continue until I have so little left that I cast to my knot, at which time I replace.

To decide how much backing you need, spool the reel with the 75 yards of braid alone (or how ever many yards you have decided to use. I use 75 when I buy 150 yard spools, so I can spool two reels or one twice.) I tie one end loosely to a tree limb, walk off 75 yards and spool the line, not bothering to use a knot, but just lightly taping it to the spool with masking tape, since I am about to remove it as described below. Then, I use an albright knot to tie the backing to the braid and reel in line until it's within an eight of an inch of the lip. Then, I reverse the process. I tie the end of the line to the tree and walk off all the line. Then I use an arbor knot and a little tape to attach the backing to the spool and reel it all in under slight tension.

The difficulty in this method is finding open land to stretch out all your line, but if you are trying to stretch dollars, stretching line can be worth it.

If you don't mind using a leader, you can keep from using up the braid by tying on leaders and replacing them instead of losing braid each time you re-tie a lure. I often don't use a leader, though, because one more knot is one more potential failure point. Also, some types of cover abraid mono or flouro quicker than they do braid, although rocks will cut braid quickly.

Jim
 

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I want to switch to braid. A buddy recommended leaving some mono on the spool to cut down on cost.

Anybody do this? How much mono should I strip off?

Also, i don't have a full spool of mono right now due to tangles, changing baits, etc.

How do you know when spool is "full" (as I add the braid on)?

Thanks in advance, this site is a ton of help.




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The purpose of top shotting with braid is to cut costs. If you think about it, a quarter to half the line on any given reel sees little light of day. I do it on some of my surf reels. On a 6500 I'll top shot 175-200 yards of braid. The reel will hold 300 yards of 30 pound braid if you go all braid.
 

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I use braid all the way to the spool and a fluorocarbon or co-polymer shock leader. As stated as line starts to fray, just cut off a small section.

Here's the difference and a way to save money-- at some point in the year (end of season?) cut off the frayed end as you have been and spool the braid off one reel directly to another. This way you are using the "back" end for the next year. Braid doesn't have the memory that other line has so it won't matter which "direction" you spool it on.

Also, power pro used to provide foam stickies to attach to your spool (spinning) so it would not slip around the spool. I use archery felt in 3 small thin pieces for the line to bite.

Hope this helps
 

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Red X Angler
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OK I think my approach is simpler but only valid if you are using per-spooled line instead of getting put on at a store. I put the spool of braid on the reel then double uni know on some mono of a similar weight rating and finish filling the reel. ( I go to almost touching the foot on a bait caster and to within 1/16 or 1/8 of the edge on a spinning reel). you now have the right amount of line on the reel. next unspool it by walking it of in the grass so that it is laid out nicely and won't tangle or get nicked. then tie on the mono and reel it all back on.

You have to put something (I usually put a wrap or 2 of electrical tape cut to the right width) on the spool if you use all braid or it will slip on the spool when you try to reel in.

When the braid starts to look shabby simply spool of to the mono and tie on the shabby end then you have fresh on top. Depending on how long it has been it might be a good time to change the mono underneath as well.

My .02

Darrell
 

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really depends on what type of fishing you're doing. lot of people saying half mono half braid or over half mono just 50-75 yards of braid but it depends on how deep you're fishing and species etc. Anything that's going to be taken offshore I like to have at least 300yards of line total because you just don't know what you might hook and i'm not a fan of getting spooled or getting down in to light mono on a big fish.

as far as mono backing to keep the braid from slipping as per the original question, don't need much, just enough to cover the spool so the braid has something to dig in to a little bit
 

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Recently out of lazieness I spooled with only braid on my openface, the line would not hold to the spool...just kept spinning 'round and 'round. So I ended up pulling it off and used some 8# mono for backing. Works fine now. Also like to use a mono leader so I'm not cutting the line everytime I change baits. My advice....dont get lazy!
 

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Red X Angler
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depends on what I'm using it for but generally I do 50/50 mono braid with a wrap of duct tape ( grips better than electric tape, on the spool. I spool my braid off and flip it when it gets faded/worn. Also what mono depends on what I'm using the reel for. If I think I will ever get spooled down to the mono I use better stuff, if its just filler I doubt I will ever see I am less picky.
 

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On spinning reels used in shallow water I use old braid for backing. I would use mono but the old braid is usually more available when I put new line on. As mention in an earlier post, for shallow fishing where the first 100 yards or so (more like the first 50???) is the only line that would ever get wet, spooling with total new braid is a waste of $. When I tie to mono backing I make sure the knot is at the very bottom of the spool as I wind it on. I always get a bump where the mono/braid knot is and this bump is not noticeable at the bottom of the spool.
I've also always used a leader with braid. I find braid very difficult to cut, tie, or just generally handle compared to leader material weather it be mono, floro etc. I tie a leader of about 6' using a sebile knot (spelling wrong). I can wind it through the guides and there is no snagging as the knot goes through the eyes when I cast. I think the knot has to be super low profile with the leader tag facing in the direction of the reel in order to make sure casts don't grab the eyes.
I use a clinch knot if tying on lures, hard baits etc. It's not the improved clinch knot so it is easy to untie and I don't have to cut it very often. It leaves a curly end which can be a bit of a challenge for my aging eyes so once in a while I cut to a straight section. This trick was shown to me by a guy at a local tackle shop. I didn't think it would work but I am a big believer now. I've fished at least 30 times with the same leader. Relying the sebile knot takes practice and is a little tough to do for me out in a kayak.

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks all, good stuff here. Now I just need to find some free time to rig all this stuff up. At some point you have to sacrifice "going fishin" for "gettin ready". Unfortunately I don't think about this stuff when it's cold and windy.....


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I always try to rig up my rods and reels the night before on where I want to go and what I want to do. It passes the time and gets you pretty excited for the next day. I know for my baitcaster, some people used to tell me that if I only line with braid, braid is so thin it often cuts into itself and can cause for a nasty backlash here and there. So I usually do about 50/50 or try to give my braid an extra 25-50 yards based off how far I plan on casting. It really does save on cast, if you're cheap enough you can have two full spools of line by purchasing mono and braid, as opposed to buying two sets of braid :D
 

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The rough-ish surface of white First Aid Tape, or cloth electrical tape, wrapped once around the spool arbor does a great job of keeping braid from slipping.

My preference is the First Aid Tape.

RW
 
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I am just getting into braid and will use Gremlin's approach. One reason is that braid is "almost forever" line and mono loses a substantial amount of strength over time. I am afraid I would leave the backing on too long and when I finally got into a fish big enough to take me deep into the backing it might break.
My understanding is that you only need to replace braid if it is physically damaged. Fading is loss of pigments used to color the fibers, not breakdown of the fibers, but if the color is important to you then you replace it to get the color back. Mono OTOH does break down with exposure. A disclaimer - this understanding about braid is from research, not personal experience. I have personal experience with keeping mono line too long though; it definitely gets much weaker over time.
 
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