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Here's how I did mine - its over in the kayak boats/gear forum:
http://www.ncangler.com/forums/f105/kayak-fish-finder-install-documentary-4175.html

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To answer the question directly, I used Lexel to affix a skimmer transducer directly to the floor of the kayak, just in front of the cockpit and behind the front hatch. I lightly sanded both the bottom of the yak and the bottom of the transducer. I did use a big piece of foam around the transducer mostly to help protect it from getting bumped around. Mine was in a Heritage Redfish that has a really flat hull and makes locating and mounting easy. Shoots right through the kayak into the water. I did get some surface clutter on the display that I was able to clear with the FF settings.
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(ps - thanks again for Michigan... :pthat one never gets old!)
 

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I did mine similarly to Jeff's -- I just skunched my 'ducer down in a glob of adhesive on the bottom of the yak. Mine's far enough back, and under the footwells, that I wedge my battery box in front of the 'ducer, under the footwells. The head unit is on the face of the "console hump" on my Manta Ray.

I apparently need to copy those pics up here... don't see 'em over here...
 

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I have the torpedo style transducer, so we took a piece of hard foam, like what you put on your car racks, and cut it out slightly larger than the t-ducer and glued it down at the hatch in from off my seat in my tarpon. When we get to the water we put a little water in around the t-ducer make sure to get a little under it and off we go. If you cut the forward section of the foam to a point your tackle will move around it easier and I put my battery hook up right in line behind it.
 

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I use a portable fish finder in a carry case. The transducer has a large suction cup that allows it to be mounted anywhere underneath or on the lower side of the kayak. The disadvantage of the exterior mount is that the transducer can get damaged if you happen to run aground or hit something underwater....so I have to be careful where and how I use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys. Any suggestions on fish finder models (xmas is almost here), i haven't really used one. All the articles say the more pixels and more power the better. From a kayaker's perspective does this still hold true?
 

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Depends alot on budget, accessories (like GPS) I recommend from my search that you go for full color as it gives more distinction to locate fish and thermals. Garmin 160c is the lowest priced color one I've found but it says it is freshwater prefered, the salt model is the 360c I think. For basics you can go with many grey scale models around $100. Stick with Garmin, Lowrance, Eagle. Humminbird has mixed reviews. Stay away from the odd brands being sold new now on Ebay and places like Harbor Freight. You get what you pay for. If you buy used (Ebay/Craigslist) make sure it comes complete with transducer and a guarantee to work properly. many models are sold now as "portables" and may suit your needs well as they are already wired for small batteries.
 

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Here is the guide I used and it works great.

Prowler_Fishfinder

But instead of using a pool noodle I used a PVC/ cleanout drain pipe. I think that is what they are called. It's the PVC that has a screw-on lid on one end. I think using that lid would make it and keep it a little neater. Any questions just drop me a line. I have installed a few fish fishfinders fill free to ask questions.

Mutt

P.S. I just saw where you live. I'm in Gastonia. I'd be glad to stop by and give you hand if you need it.
 

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Thanks guys. Any suggestions on fish finder models (xmas is almost here), i haven't really used one. All the articles say the more pixels and more power the better. From a kayaker's perspective does this still hold true?
I didn't do a ton of research on models, but I did pay a little extra for more pixels (got a Humminbird 535 - 2x the vertical pixels of the lower models).

As for power, I'm not so sure. Power helps with depth. Power helps with a stronger, clearer signal to overcome interference. Power might help with screen brightness or backlight power. My thinking (unproven opinion) is that on a kayak, we're rarely in hundreds of feet of water, not moving very fast, no other power motors affecting the signal or generating turbulence, and not very far away from the screen, so I don't see power as a big differentiator for us. Plus, power costs battery life and more battery = more dead weight. There are probably some trade offs required as you get to higher pixel levels on the screen as it takes better signals to make the pixels pay off.

The Humminbird 500 series are wider than the Piranha's or the Eagles, and that takes up space in the cockpit. I don't feel like its impacting me too much but its all I've ever used so I don't know any difference. My only real complaint so far is the base - already cracked the little plastic collar around the yellow push button that lets you pivot the unit forward and back and now the button won't stay in its place. Purely mechanical, not electrical, and I did it by misusing the system while it was out of the water - sort of an unfortunate circumstance of being attached to a kayak stored on its side in the garage.
 

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Power might help with screen brightness or backlight power.
The power figure I've seen advertised for FishFinders (the one on the order of 600 watts, 800 watts, etc) is the power shot from the transducer down toward the bottom -- not power consumed by the LCD display. You can infer a second power figure by looking at the input requirements of the unit, but that's usually listed in volts and amps, not directly in watts. (As we all remember from Ohm's law, P=IE, of course.)
 
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