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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am no fly fisherman but have been tying my own feathered treble hooks for my topwater lures.

What is the trick to keeping the thread in place after you have caught some fish? Seems after 8 or 10 fish my thread starts sliding down the shank of the hook.
 

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Sliding down the hook shank is indicative of not building a thread base on the bare shank before you tie materials on. Wrap at least one to two layers of thread on the hook shank before tying in materials.

Also, how are you finishing with the thread? There's a tool/ method we used called Whip Finish. It helps keep the thread from coming unraveled.


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As horsehead said, the thread base is important. You can also put a bit of Super Glue Gel on the hook, just after getting your thread started. Put the glue on the started thread, and where ever you'll be putting additional thread. Look for beginner fly tying on youtube, and that will let you see how the fly tyers do it. Also, what thread are you using? If it is cotton, synthetic materials will work better, and will be more durable. Nylon sewing thread should work. Hope this helps. Let us know how you do.
 

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I am no fly fisherman but have been tying my own feathered treble hooks for my topwater lures.

What is the trick to keeping the thread in place after you have caught some fish? Seems after 8 or 10 fish my thread starts sliding down the shank of the hook.

That's a good problem to have. If it's the fish that are destroying your flies you are doing something right. I have never found anything that makes the flies bullet proof. Hard as nails works on midge patterns, Clear Cure Goo works on Clousers. Even with CCG your bucktail will get worked after 10 fish or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lots of good info here. I havent really used any kind of a base wrap of thread. Pretty much wrapping right to the metal. As far as thread goes, I am using a nylon thread I bought to rewrap a rod with and havent used any kind of finish on it.
 

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Lots of good info here. I havent really used any kind of a base wrap of thread. Pretty much wrapping right to the metal. As far as thread goes, I am using a nylon thread I bought to rewrap a rod with and havent used any kind of finish on it.
Yes, you will wrap thread to the metal, but make sure you completely cover the "material" zone with thread before adding your feathers or tail. Wraps should be as tight as possible without breaking the tread. Start at the one end and work to the other, then apply a light layer of glue/cement. Then tie in your material. This should completely solve your problem. Finish with half-hitches or whip and add another drop or two of cement/glue.

Zap-a-Gap is a thin, fast bond that cures nearly instantly. Thin like super-glue, but waterproof. I've actually had it bond with certain synthetics and puff smoke. I prefer head cement or nail polish on most patterns as Zap-a-Gap tends to "travel" through materials and is somewhat brittle once dry. Also finds your fingers quickly and dries before you can clean it off. Even so, it's great for holding something in place when time is off the essence.
 
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The Super Glue Gel is thick enough that it will not drip. I like that because I don't make a mess using it. I have some head cement, and it is great stuff, but the odor goes all through the house. I was just Wondering if anyone who has used both the Zap a Gap, and the Super Glue Gel would give their opinion on the pros and cons of each. MY flies are fairly durable, and I put them through some tough trials.
 

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if it is the good heat shrink with a glue/sealant inside of it should work great. The other cheaper kind may also work, but it would not be as quick or cheap as a swipe of nail polish from the Dollar Tree.

Darrell
 
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