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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's not really a Jon boat but the term has evolved to include just about anything aluminum. Anyway, I just got this 14' vhull and I would like to replace the transom board. I was going to tackle it myself unless I hear on this board that it is best left to the pro's. Anybody ever done this? Got any hints for me? Is there anything new and better than marine grade plywood?
 

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been there done that.. use exertior grade or marine grade plywood. a good epoxy -5200- tear out the entire transome 3/4" plywood doubled works well. seal it entirely in epoxy. drill the drain hole. then replace the transome in tin boats most are screwed or riveted in. use SS screws..

here is how to do the drain hole the RIGHT WAY...

this is the tool for forming the lips on the drain tube in the transom. the tubes are usually brass with one end already rolled. for this little demo i used a piece of 1"od copper pipe.


looking at the tool, the large flange is 1.25 in. in diameter and .15 in thick. it reduces down to .91 in.in diameter with approximately a 1/8 in radius. the piece is .62 in.long. the hole in the center is .5 in.in diameter. both sides of the center hole are chamfered as is the edge of the end that goes into the tube. a three inch bolt will give you about 2 in. of reach and i would recommend using a fine thread bolt rather than a coarse thread one. this tool has two washers at each end,one steel and one brass. have fun




for this demo i am using a piece of 2x4. i cut it in half and then reattached it before the hole was drilled. more on this later


the edges of the hole need to be rounded. i use a round rasp to do this


some of the other things needed are,epoxy,an acid brush,and the tube. the tube is cut so that approximately 1/8 of an inch protruds from the transom. if your are using a preformed tube this would be only on the unformed end. since we are using an unformed one here,it should protrud on both sides of the transom. after mixing some epoxy liberally coat the inside of the hole with epoxy. use plenty of epoxy to be sure all the wood in the transom is coated.


here we see the tube ready to be crimped into place. you can see the tube protruding from both sides of the wood.


here,the mandrel has been tightened and the lips of the tube are crimped into the wood



this our finished installation. all excess epoxy should be cleaned from the surfaces of the transom and the tool with acetone


here is why i cut the 2x4. this hole was drilled in a drill press and if you look closely along the lower edge of the tube,you will see a gap between it and the wood. the chance of this is greater when the hole is drilled with a hand held drill. this is why it is important to be sure the inner surface of the hole is completely coated with epoxy. otherwise,this is where rot is going to start in your new transom.
i hope you found this helpful.
 

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i can't take credit for that info..someone else posted it else were.. i am a member on alot of boating sites..

yep tear it out reglass a double layer of plywood screw it back in..use more resien around the edges to seal it very tightly..

zooker
 

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I have acquired a boat in need of repairs. The first thing I noticed was the transom on this boat is pretty rotted. It is an aluminum polarcraft jon boat kind of thing.

My question is will the rivets have to be pulled out of the transom and start over with new wood or how can this be done easily? I am as much of a beginner as you can get on this!

Any input is much appreciated!

Thanks,

Starr




We dang near had to rebuild a jon boat after hitting a pole at Lake Russell, GA. Watch out for channel marker CW-40.
 
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