Should have had Randy and a film crew on hand, but instead I took a bunch of pics. I installed a Humminbird 535 on the console of my Heritage Redfish, using a removable Scotty Electronics mount, a custom mounting bracket (Mrs. Jeffo's cutting board), custom wire passthrough (CPVC junction box connecter) and a number of other fun pieceparts. Took it out today for its maiden run and it did pretty well. Still have some things to learn about it and some settings to get right, but I'm on the way...
1st 10 pics:Parts List said:edit: I was asked for the parts list below... adding it here
Looking back over the pictures and relying on memory for the full parts list and some commentary. (Some of the sizes are going to be hard to recreate from memory, but many of them depend on your fishfinder specs, plugs and wires):
You'll need to cut holes in the kayak (2 - one for the scotty flush plate and one for the cpvc connector) and the battery box - spade bit seems to work best, IMO. You'll need to solder the wires together for the fuse holder (solder and gun). You'll need to drill holes in the kayak and the mounting plate for the screws. You'll need to cut and shape the adapter plate out of the cutting board (hack saw & wood rasp). You'll need to core the rubber stoppers and cut grooves out to the edge to get the wires to go through (I used drill & boxcutter, have heard that there are coring tools that work better), and drill out the top of 2 of the pvc caps.
- Fishfinder body, base & transducer - ordered mine from BassPro.com, a HumminBird 535. I went for a little bigger screen and a few more pixels by going with the full size 535 over an eagle or other smaller profile unit.
- Scotty Electronics mount - ordered mine from kayakfishingstuff.com. Using it more for removability than the ability to rotate. I did just find a RAM electronics mount at Dick's on the clearance rack for $13.
- Custom Adapter plate - cut from used cutting board found in a local kitchen, used to connect the fat base of the 535 with the Scotty electronics mount bracket.
- Stainless screws, washers & nuts (2 sets of 4) - 1 set came with the fishfinder and I bought a variety pack of stainless machine screws and nuts at Lowes.
- 1/8" Rubber Gasket material - found in Lowes plumbing section, I think in 6"x6" sheets. Used between the scotty flush mount adapter plate and the kayak. High probability of overkill, but the CPVC connector had rubber washer, so I thought my other hole in the hull should too. Might be useful as a shim material in case you don't have a perfectly flat spot for mounting.
- cpvc junction box connector (2) - one for the kayak, one for the battery box (another potential overkill). The one on the kayak needs to have big enough inner diameter to fit your transducer connector, and big enough to fit your smallest connector along with the transducer wire. Found at Lowes, electric aisle.
- rubber stopper (3) - 1 cored for wire passthrough from the finder to the hull (2 wires), 1 cored for wire passthrough from the hull to the battery box (1 wire), 1 intact for times when you're not using the fishfinder and want a watertight seal. These need to fit into your cpvc junction tightly, without pushing all the way through, but close enough at the top that you can still get the cpvc cap screwed on. Found at Lowes in the specialty parts drawers.
- pvc cap (3) - These need to fit your CPVC junction threads. 1 with hole cut in the top to get the plug for power and transducer through (I needed a pretty big, square hole for the transducer plug), 1 with a small hole for pushing the wire into the battery box (smaller hole - no plug), 1 intact for the topside when running without the fishfinder and want a watertight seal. Lowes PVC aisle.
- Watertight, snap-lid food storage box. Big enough to hold your battery with room for wires, inline fuse housing, spare fuses. I got mine at Wal-Mart in housewares.
- Battery (12v, 7ah)+Charger(600ma) - bought the pair at a hobby shop.
- inline fuse housing & fuse(s) - per fishfinder specs. Don't recall what mine were. Bought at auto parts store
- heat shrink wire insulation - you'll have to splice the fuse housing to the power cable between the unit and the battery, and will have to add connectors of some type to connect the power leads to the battery terminals. With things shoved into a box and subject to some jostling in the kayak it seemed pretty reasonable to reduce the possibility of exposed wiring. bought at auto parts store.
- Battery terminal clips (alligator, in my case). I think I got these at Radio Shack.
- foam block - used to seat and protect the transducer inside the hull. I cut a section from a large (6") pool noodle I found at Krogers.
- Lexel (silicon sealant/caulk) - for adhering the foam and the transducer to the hull. Found at Ace Hardware
You'll also need to secure the box inside the hull. My Redfish has a nice spot under the console and I was able to mount the foam block so that the box tucks in tightly. I used a piece of shock cord (small bungee) attached to a couple of hooks to help hold it in place.
If I think of more, I'll add to the list.
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