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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, the saga continues.

The weather was nice. I received my tach cable. So I installed it. No problem. It started rough. Then smoothed out after a bit. Then on to another try at getting the idle down.

Then when starting it the starter decided to grind. Further inspection found one screw stripped and another mount broken. WTF. Of course, these are both on the block.

There is a 55 like mine on Craig's list. It supposedly needs a tuneup and a fuel pump.

Any thoughts on building one from two???

mikeski
 

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Red X Angler
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Sorry to hear of your troubles.

If the one needing a tune-up has good compression on both cylinders it is differently doable. I am a novice at best but if you can get the Craigs list cheap enough I would not hesitate to tackle the job if it were mine. It may not be something that would pay in the long run if you had to pay boat shop labor rates. Sundrop will probably be along shortly with better info.

Darrell
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Compression is suppose to be good and I am mechanically enclined enough to do it. And they are the same year period. S my good parts will move over. And then there are the other spare parts that will be left over. The price is right also.

There is the issue of the age being early 70's.

I think about a 4 stroke at times as an update. But I am not ready to drop those bucks at the moment.

Mikeski
 

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Red X Angler
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I'd like to see a pic of the broken mount. There are ways to fabricate metal reaching to other bolts in some cases that can save what you have. As far as a used motor. Compression tells the story. Carbs and fuel systems are easy ( as you know) but low compression means an overhaul.
 

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Red X Angler
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that's why I bought another one too. I have lots of parts now. 4 strokes are not home repair "friendly" like 2 strokes are nor do they have the longevity.

Compression is suppose to be good and I am mechanically enclined enough to do it. And they are the same year period. S my good parts will move over. And then there are the other spare parts that will be left over. The price is right also.

There is the issue of the age being early 70's.

I think about a 4 stroke at times as an update. But I am not ready to drop those bucks at the moment.

Mikeski
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Received a reply from the listing. Said the compression was 125. He also has the remote. So I will be taking a trip to go look and if the starter area looks ok it will be mine.

I looked in my manual and I can't find a number for compression.

I looked at the starter mount area. I could drill out the stripped hole and put in a Heli Coil. But the other one will not be fixed that way. And there is nothing on that side to bolt to to rig it. With the torque of the starter I don't think rigging it would be a good idea. And it's dark now so not going to try to take a pic.

mikeski

mikeski
 

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125 is like new for a mid 70s motor. If they are all pretty equal. Some guys only check one cylinder and sell it as being all so be careful. Lower unit and controls are worth what he's asking if its the one I think it is. :) and cash in hand always gets a better deal!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ya, the remote is a bonus. I have seen them for $150 on ebay. The cover looks to be in better shape. Mine looks like it sat out in the sun and is faded. Can only hope the rest of the motor is the same.

I agree on the 4 stroke. Fuel injection and all that will require the shop to work on it. I can deal with about anything except for going inside the crank case on the 2 stroke.

mikeski

mikeski
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here are a couple of pics. One shows the hole at the front of the motor that is stripped. The other shows the broken mount and the piece sitting on the starter.

While diddling with it yesterday I found that someone used bolts which were shorter than the depth of the hole. So, I could get a longer bolt for each hole. I would get maybe 3/8" of new thread to gab on to. But that's just a problem waiting to happen again.





mikeski
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I picked up the motor today. I also got the controls and steering. And an extra steering setup. To bad there are no keys. But I bet it will pull in $50 easy from ebay if nothing else.

Guess I will be rebuilding an outboard. I have some time so I might just have to clean it up to factory fresh or as close to as I am willing to make it. hahahhaa

mikeski
 

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I agree on the 4 stroke. Fuel injection and all that will require the shop to work on it. I can deal with about anything except for going inside the crank case on the 2 stroke.

mikeski

mikeski
You'd be amazed at just how easy an EFI system is on the 4 strokes. You can do everything yourself with the exception of cleaning of the injectors and then anyone with an ultrasonic cleaner can clean them for you. On my 115 Merc Fourstroke it takes me less than 20 minutes to remove and reinstall the injectors and I have a guy here locally with an ultrasonic cleaner that charges $20 per injector to clean them. He gives full flow rates of the injectors from before and after.

Things such as low pressure lift pumps and high pressure pumps are easily tested with a simple fuel gauge and the float switch inside of the FSM (or VST depending on your motor) is easily tested with a multimeter. I would rather deal with this than I would pulling a carburetor out and rebuilding it. That said, I am more electrically inclined than I am mechanically inclined. I start having a bunch of seals, bushings, and springs to deal with and I go crazy haha.
 

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Red X Angler
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4 strokes have way more moving parts, require tighter tolerances and don't deal well with variables caused by ware etc, then add computers and its a back yard mechs nightmare. 4 strokes are basically car engines. Valves, lifters, pushrods, camshafts, oil pumps all prone to failure and wear out quicker than 2 strokes. Just less to keep timed and aligned, less moving parts to wear out. easier to diagnose at home. Now some of the newer 2 strokes have inherited the bad habits of 4 strokes because they have tried to make them more efficient. That is a trade off for better mileage at a loss of longevity and ease of "home repair". I will take an old basic electronic ignitioned ( one advancement I do like), 2 stroke with NO oil injection ( if I mix it I know its there). I wish you could still buy a basic 2 stroke motor but the EPA and marketing forced them to start to compromise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It was a big day yesterday. I pulled, tugged, lifted, fit and all other things required to move my motor off and the other on. I removed most of the stuff from the new and shot it with cleaner. I swapped in my electrical stuff as the harness looked like it sat in the sun and the insulation was dried out. And I knew that my electrical was good. And moved my fuel pump over as there was none on the new.

I tried to turn it over yesterday but it sparked. It appears I got some water in the starter solenoid. This morning I tried it and it cranked with no problem. Joy.

The choke does not return as it should so I need to play with that. Otherwise it appears to be ready to attempt to fire it up.

One difference I noticed was the pee hole. On my original there is a fitting at the top of the motor that runs out to the case. On the new one there is no fitting. So I have to imagine it pees to the back of the motor harder. Thoughts??

mikeski
 

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Red X Angler
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That was one of the transition years where they only discharged from the little ports, no "pee" hole. Many earlier models didn't have it and some even have a plug you can remove to add one. Just make sure water is coming out of those little ports on the back of the lower housing. Just a spit and sputter comes out, not a lot. after 78 they all had the pee holes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I swapped over the carbs from my original motor. They were rebuilt earlier. The motor purrs. Well close to purring I guess. It starts and runs well. I think it's idling a tad high but it goes into reverse. So slow enough. Gonna have to check the weather and see about getting this bad boy on the water for a final tune.

mikeski
 

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Red X Angler
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Mike most will idle lower in the water than it does on a hose. Water creates some backpressure on the exhaust so to fine tune it its best sitting in the water.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks SD, I read that in the book. So, I have a tub that allows the whole prop to be submerged. Then I hook the water up to the ears to make sure it get's good water. I will run it again tomorrow and set the idle. The intake on the carbs appear to be balanced which was just luck.

I really should just be left with a ride on the lake and set the advance to 19deg at WOT. Or there abouts.

mikeski
 
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