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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Native Mariner: DIY rudder cable repair (& Q: help locating part)

Had my Mariner since 2012 and have been generally delighted with it. But rudder cable broke this weekend. Was able to use tools at hand to patch it up well enough to keep fish and get back to launch. Couldn't get to nearest store (GetOutdoors in Greensboro) in time to replace cable kit (assuming they had one in stock), so headed to hardware store (in my case, Home Depot). Bought 1/16" galvinized cable (wanted stainless) and crimps (less than $5 total), then used electrical terminal rings to attach cable to rudder assembly. Pleased with everything except the electrical terminal rings -- they're made for current not bearing a load. So need to find a more robust terminal end made for torque/weight not electrical current. Anyone have an idea where I could replace this terminal ring (is there a better term for it?):

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That "Marine Eye Fitting" is not cheap [$6.xx each for 1/16"]. Turns out GetOutdoors would sell me the cables for ca. $10 each (need 2) with terminal loops already crimped on and w/extra crimps. But I still want to be able to fix this myself if/when needed. Maybe I'm overthinking that terminal loop that connects back to the rudder assembly. Owner of Public Hardware told me it requires a special crimping tool anyway (not regular crimping pliers). But thinking I could just loop the cable around the screw post w/a small enough loop that won't slip off, then crimp it. Here's a photo of the existing cable crimped on an electrical terminal loop, with my idea beside it -- perhaps I could find a small cable thimble to give it more strength:

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OK it may not be fixable, but I could use it as an addition to the grandkids playground, you imaginary white water adventures, whale hunts, close calls with pirates etc. I'll come by and pick it up, after which I'll be happy to take you out for a BBQ lunch a the diner of your choice. We can't go to fishfiends though (he cooks beef and calls it Q)

Darrell
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just FYI for future readers of this thread: I had trouble making a clean cut of the 1/16" steel cable. Any way I tried it (e.g., compound action cutting pliers) left some messy strands that could make sliding the crimp/ferrule over the cable difficult. After some experimentation, discovered that a Dremel-type device with a cut-off disc will slice cleanly through the cable. Helps to cover cable w/electrical tape first, then apply a little tension to the cable as you cut it. FWIW // joel
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
follow-up from March 2016: decided to change out rudder cables to prepare for warmer weather -- and more fishing. picked up bulk 1/16" stainless steel cable from eBay, along with correctly sized thimbles and crimps. used the 1/16" crimps to attach to the Mariner's rudder assembly in the rear. also upgraded the stock Native rudder to a Boonedox oversized aluminum rudder - got a good deal on one at the Greenboro fishing expo. the upgraded rudder improves the turning radius tremendously, although it does put quite a bit more strain on the cable assembly--hence the extra cable sleeves that will hopefully hold up longer under the increased stress from the heavier rudder.

 

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I have the same rudder on my slayer propel, man it helps tremendously!! I haven't broken a cable, but I have had it come loose from the rudder handle. Just a reminder, don't forget the proper tools for adjustment.

follow-up from March 2016: decided to change out rudder cables to prepare for warmer weather -- and more fishing. picked up bulk 1/16" stainless steel cable from eBay, along with correctly sized thimbles and crimps. used the 1/16" crimps to attach to the Mariner's rudder assembly in the rear. also upgraded the stock Native rudder to a Boonedox oversized aluminum rudder - got a good deal on one at the Greenboro fishing expo. the upgraded rudder improves the turning radius tremendously, although it does put quite a bit more strain on the cable assembly--hence the extra cable sleeves that will hopefully hold up longer under the increased stress from the heavier rudder.

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I love the rudder on the water -- the Mariner's turn radius has improved tremendously. But the bigger/longer rudder does create some challenges as it protrudes so far (see photo above) behind the back of the boat. Wish there were an easy way to detach the rudder for transport, but don't think I want to do that given the way the rudder is attached, e.g., a single screw to which I plan to add medium Loctite to reduce the odds of the screw working loose.

Good point re: tools. Will make sure I have extra cable, crimps, screws, etc., if I need to repair/adjust during a trip.

// joel
 
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Hey Joel, Would you mind posting a picture of the cable assembly how it sits on the pulley opposite the steering handle? Seems like the crimp goes inside the notch behind the center screw but I can't remember exactly. Also, where did you get the crimp to join the two cables together?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
will do -- tho it may be sunday before I can do take photos of that cable assembly.

you can get those crimps/sleeves (1/16") in small quantities from home depot, but I bought a 100 pack off ebay (from china -- only use paypal for those transactions) for $6. a US source for a little more HERE.


Hey Joel, Would you mind posting a picture of the cable assembly how it sits on the pulley opposite the steering handle? Seems like the crimp goes inside the notch behind the center screw but I can't remember exactly. Also, where did you get the crimp to join the two cables together?

Thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i'm thinking about starting a thread on Mariner/Propel DYI stuff, just to document it all for others-- would be relevant to other Native boats, too, I think. E.g., some have replaced the crank arms and/or pedals on the Propel unit. Thread HERE from a Native forum. Doesn't sound like that would work for your current arrangement (wife's boat), but might help others or if you situation changes.
 
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