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1987 4.3 points ignition replaced by Hot Spark brand electronic ignition. Old coil tested bad so I replaced it. I disconnected shift interrupter and tach wire from coil just to eliminate those possibilities, still no start. I disconnected tach wire because even though tach probably works...I have no idea what gauges work yet.
What it is doing however, is different than I have experienced before. usually it is spark or no spark. I hook my timing light to wire that is from coil to dist cap. I crank the engine and get spark for about 1-2 seconds then nothing. If I let it sit (or monkey with something on it for a few minutes) and try it again, same thing....spark for a second or two, then nothing. My SELOC or Clymer doesn't cover anything like this and I looked at my downloaded version of the factory service manual from OMC and while it might cover it, I did a "control F" and found nothing.
Usually I would say this is the ICM knowing the coil is good (I did test the new one just to be sure) OR a short in the ignition circuit. Of course all the tune up stuff is new. The neutral safety switch prevents power to starter motor, not spark like an outboard so if it turns over, you are in neutral.
I have never had this engine running since it is new and I just got it installed and put back together. The old block had an internal crack however I did start it and it ran great on the hose...this was 2 years ago with points still installed and old coil of course.
As always I appreciate it
What it is doing however, is different than I have experienced before. usually it is spark or no spark. I hook my timing light to wire that is from coil to dist cap. I crank the engine and get spark for about 1-2 seconds then nothing. If I let it sit (or monkey with something on it for a few minutes) and try it again, same thing....spark for a second or two, then nothing. My SELOC or Clymer doesn't cover anything like this and I looked at my downloaded version of the factory service manual from OMC and while it might cover it, I did a "control F" and found nothing.
Usually I would say this is the ICM knowing the coil is good (I did test the new one just to be sure) OR a short in the ignition circuit. Of course all the tune up stuff is new. The neutral safety switch prevents power to starter motor, not spark like an outboard so if it turns over, you are in neutral.
I have never had this engine running since it is new and I just got it installed and put back together. The old block had an internal crack however I did start it and it ran great on the hose...this was 2 years ago with points still installed and old coil of course.
As always I appreciate it