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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a little Evinrude 3hp outboard that's in need of maintenance. I live up in Boone where boating equipment and repair aren't in big demand. Would anyone happen to know a repair shop within a reaonable distance? Maybe Wilkesboro, Lenoir, Jefferson or Mountain City, TN. Thanks.
 

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Red X Angler
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Check around locally with your lawn mower shops those little 3hp are very basic and any good lawnmower shop should be willing to tackle it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey trigger22, I have basic mechanical skills but that's about it. Motor has been sitting for about 5 years. I'm not knowledgable with boat motors so figured it needed an overhaul. I pulled the crank and it went about halfway and didn't rewind. Someone told me to take the spark plugs out and try again. I'm searching the internet for parts diagrams. If I find one guess I'll give it shot. Thanks for your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It was a gift from a buddy of mine. Don't believe he knew the year. He's had it a good while and used it up until about five years ago. Don't know the year but I have the numbers. Model# E3BRCEC Serial#B 1927785. I appreciate your help.
 

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They are pretty straight forward. YouTube can be your friend. Take pictures before disassembly as well as during. That helps me a lot. I refuse to pay someone else to fix something without at least attempting to do it myself. With the help of YouTube and Google, I have been able to fix 99 percent of all of my own stuff from automobiles, washer/dryer, kitchen stove, dish washer, central heat/air, lawn mowers, weed eaters, Mercury 2 and Four Strokes, and Evinrude Etec's. If you get stumped down hesitate to ask.
 

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I had a 3 hp yammy that constantly needed carb cleaning, easy and straight forward. If possible work on a clean white rag or towel. Some of the fuel air passages were as small as one strand of 18 ga.wire, this was usually my issue. Since it has been sitting I would clean the tank and look for any internal fuel filters and clean all fuel lines and carb passages with a strand of wire and carb cleaner nozzle. This usually did the trick for me. Once you see how small the passages are on these small engines you'll see how important clean marine fuel and good stabilizers are. And yes patience, youtube and a digital camera will be your friend. Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you Roanoke Kayaker. Yep, it looks like there are some tiny parts that will try my patience. But, :) my spirit won't be broken. If you or anyone that has read/reads this thread, please let me know if you think of anything else. Will keep you all updated.
 

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Red X Angler
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anytime you are bringing a stored motor back to life you typically will need to do the following.

Remove and clean/rebuild the carb.
Replace all lines exposed to fuel
Replace any fuel filter you may have
Replace/Rebuild the fuel pump if so equipped
Replace any rubber hoses for vacuum etc.
Check/clean all wire connections
Clean and regap or replace the spark plug (not always a necessity but not a bad idea)
Drain and refill lower unit oil. (condensation builds in storage and oil becomes acidic and corrosive)
Replace water pump impeller (even if its pumping water that rubber is old and will not last long.)
*** If the engine is pre-electronic ignition you will also need to clean and re-gap or replace the points and clean any rust off of the outer ring of the flywheel where the magnetic trigger is. (yours should be electronic so this doesn't apply to you)
++also note the condition of your starter rope if its manual start, how dry/brittle does it seem to be? You don't want to get a dozen pulls on it thinking its ok, then it breaks on the water.
 

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Sundrop nailed it almost perfectly.
If you replace the points, then replacing the capacitor also is a given. An old mnemonic that is useful is "minus metal on the minus side(of the points) equals minus capacitance." In other words a pit on the ground side of the points and a hill on the positive side is a dead giveaway the capacitor/condenser is bad. It might run ok now but it wont for long.

On a manual/pullcord start, replace that rope! Period, no discussion. The wear at the pulley knot is always worse than wear at any other point on the rope. Use the right size and length rope(Poly is best since it is UV resistant). Clean any old grease out of the spring. A dry spring works much better than a greased spring 2 months later.
 

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A great place for info on your motor is iboats.com. You can find info on your model motor and answers to questions you will come up with. There are also some good FAQs on how to bring a stored motor back to life.

mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you Sovran and mikeski for the helpful information. I'm soaking this all in like a sponge. Tearing the motor down has taken a slight delay. One of the screws broke off. Bought an extractor though. Seems there is more rust and wear than I anticipated.
 
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