I'm looking for some parts for my project boat. Its a 70's something steury 14' with a 65hp 1972 evinrude. When I say prject I mean project. I got it for free though, trailer and all. The boat is fiberglass, good shape. Engine is questionable, not sure if it runs. It looks really good, I was surprised to learn it was a 72. Any way I am looking for some battery cables as well as throttle cable. The engine came disconnected from the boat. I just mounted it yesterday. I have to connected everything. Thanks
Parts needed
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I have a 75 "rude 70hp. I get a ton of stuff off ebay...Just had to order a fuel pump. Locally it was $75 but I found new in the box on ebay for $28.55 and $8 shipping. Biggest thing is knowing EXACTLY what you need so first I suggest a true service manual not one of those Clymer/Haynes jobs but a real factory manual. Also plentiful on ebay. You can Google search the model #s from the tag and get exact year etc.
I love to tinker, shame your so far away!!
Before you spend any real money make sure you've got at least 100+psi compression on all cylinders, if not you will need to rebuild. Mix a little gas 50/50 with 2 cycle oil and squirt the cylinders before you spin it so they dont scar from being dry so long. Spin it several times before you do a compression test as the oil will give you a false positive reading. If you dont have a compression guage AutoZone has a loaner tool program so you can get it there. Once you screw in the tester spin it several times to get a maximum reading.
Then next you want to make sure you get spark. if you have spark and compression you'll need to clean out or rebuild the carbs and then you can get good fuel flow.
There is more but thats a good start... Good Luck! PM me if I can help.
I love to tinker, shame your so far away!!
Before you spend any real money make sure you've got at least 100+psi compression on all cylinders, if not you will need to rebuild. Mix a little gas 50/50 with 2 cycle oil and squirt the cylinders before you spin it so they dont scar from being dry so long. Spin it several times before you do a compression test as the oil will give you a false positive reading. If you dont have a compression guage AutoZone has a loaner tool program so you can get it there. Once you screw in the tester spin it several times to get a maximum reading.
Then next you want to make sure you get spark. if you have spark and compression you'll need to clean out or rebuild the carbs and then you can get good fuel flow.
There is more but thats a good start... Good Luck! PM me if I can help.
Thanks fellas, I like to tinker to. New to the whole boat thing though. I've been stuck on land fishing. Thaught this was a great project. I've been doing the ebay thing already. And I think I have some battery cables on the way. As far as compression goes, thanks for the tip. I have the plugs out and it sounds like it is sucking air really good. Don't have the gauge though. I will check into that. I have tons of questions, but I'll save them as they come up. I wanna make sure the engine runs first. From what I have read thats where the money is.
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Not sure about cable prices but no you don't have to have a marine battery. If I were going to buy a new battery I would buy a marine battery though as it should last longer and be more dependable. They are built to handle vibration and repeated deep discharges better.
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I bought a used car battery from Auto Zone for $20 just to get mine running and then added a deep cycle marine battery. I keep the spare car battery charged and use it onboard for my radio and added a lighter socket for my cell charger, spotlight or whatever I may need without drawing my other. It also gives me a spare if I need it. Battery cables are just like car types so just measure the length you need and buy it at an auto store. Just to be honest. If your sweating the price of a battery cable,(under $20) you might not want to tackle such a large project. Just hate to see anyone get deep in their pockets and end up with a pile of parts they have to lose money on..
Best case scenario you'll have a few hundred in the motor before it is reliable,
Carb rebuilds,points and condenser,plugs,fuel lines,fuel pump and filter,water pump,thermostat(if equipped),service lower unit and possibly seals,battery,gas,oil, fueltank...not unususal to have a bad coil or 2 when they sit a long time. Starter is another concern from sitting. easily $400-600 in parts alone.
I don't want to discourage anyone, just sharing my personal experiences. Sometimes you find a gem but usually your working with rocks..LOL
Keep us updated and as I said, I'll help where I can !!
Best case scenario you'll have a few hundred in the motor before it is reliable,
Carb rebuilds,points and condenser,plugs,fuel lines,fuel pump and filter,water pump,thermostat(if equipped),service lower unit and possibly seals,battery,gas,oil, fueltank...not unususal to have a bad coil or 2 when they sit a long time. Starter is another concern from sitting. easily $400-600 in parts alone.
I don't want to discourage anyone, just sharing my personal experiences. Sometimes you find a gem but usually your working with rocks..LOL
Keep us updated and as I said, I'll help where I can !!
Thanks Sundrop, I'm not really concerned with price as I'm not in to big of a hurry to get it in the water. I wanna do it right. I was at walmart today and saw battery cables for cars, thaught "they look like they would work". $8. I asked becouse I was checking out Ebay. I don't wanna get ripped. Guy was gonna sell me some for $20 with $18 shipping !!! crazy if you ask me. They were outbaord cables though. Like you said, I don't think it matters. Just has to carry a current.
Know anything about Rack steering? The steering on the boat is really tight. Its not locked up, just hard as heck to turn. Wouldn't not wanna have to make a hard left with this thing.
I'm concerned about the starter to. Its looks a little rusty. The gear goes up and down. The spring seems a little loose though.
Know anything about Rack steering? The steering on the boat is really tight. Its not locked up, just hard as heck to turn. Wouldn't not wanna have to make a hard left with this thing.
I'm concerned about the starter to. Its looks a little rusty. The gear goes up and down. The spring seems a little loose though.
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Sounds like either corrosion in the rack or in the steering cables themselves. Grease everything really well with a greasegun and see if it fees up any. Disconnect the cable fron the rack and see if you can move the motor easier by hand. If so then it is cables. I have hung cables up and dribbled PB Blaster in them and it has and hasn't worked.. Just keep in mind an weak cable can snap at high speed and motor can flop wildly or just make a hard turn and flip the boat or at least throw everyone out of it!! Not common, but possible...
Also lube the base of the steering at the wheel as it may just be rusty under the wheel.
You'll have to test the starter with power to see if the bendix kicks out and it spins as it should. Autozone or Advance can test it for you since it works just like a car. If it is bad, I found my best pricing was online compared to what others wanted here locally. You might have better luck up there. You also may want to let a starter/generator rebuild shop look it over locally. We have a guy here in town that rebuilds most boat starters if they can be rebuilt for $40-$70 bucks.
Also lube the base of the steering at the wheel as it may just be rusty under the wheel.
You'll have to test the starter with power to see if the bendix kicks out and it spins as it should. Autozone or Advance can test it for you since it works just like a car. If it is bad, I found my best pricing was online compared to what others wanted here locally. You might have better luck up there. You also may want to let a starter/generator rebuild shop look it over locally. We have a guy here in town that rebuilds most boat starters if they can be rebuilt for $40-$70 bucks.
After my last post, I took the steering apart. The steering wheel off Should I open up the box? and where would my grease points be, as I can only access the rod at the motor end. I just got me some cables at walmart. Its good I only live 3-4 mins from one. Getting ready to give the starter some power.
I was looking at the lower unit, I unscrewed the bolt for the lube and some came out. I'm assuming thats good. Not sure what its supposed to look like, but it looked pretty new to me. It had a purple color to it.
I was looking at the lower unit, I unscrewed the bolt for the lube and some came out. I'm assuming thats good. Not sure what its supposed to look like, but it looked pretty new to me. It had a purple color to it.
eBay Motors: 1974 Johnson 50 hp Outboard Electronics & Starter. (item 180124753279 end time Jun-04-07 20:43:49 PDT)
Will this work on my 72 ? If i need the starter
Will this work on my 72 ? If i need the starter
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In the very center of the rack...between the mounts on the transome, their should be a grease fitting tou can pump grease into. I will have to research the starter.. I think in 74 Evinrude went electronic so all that other stuff wont work. I need to check to be sure.
Sounds like they used Dexron trans fluid in the lower unit. It is purple but regular lower unit oils is golden clear.. Dexron is ok according to Evinrude if your in a pinch but I know you should use the better lower unit oil when you can. If it isnt milky looking thats good. Thats means no water has been getting past the seals but you'll need to check again after you run it in the water a while as the seals may have dried out sitting. You can buy the oil in a special bottle that acts as the pump. You fill the oil from the bottom hole until it runs out of the top hole. Then replace the top plug first and the vaccuum will keep oil from running out while you quickly replace the lower plug.
Is your motor a 3 cyl or 2 cyl?
Sounds like they used Dexron trans fluid in the lower unit. It is purple but regular lower unit oils is golden clear.. Dexron is ok according to Evinrude if your in a pinch but I know you should use the better lower unit oil when you can. If it isnt milky looking thats good. Thats means no water has been getting past the seals but you'll need to check again after you run it in the water a while as the seals may have dried out sitting. You can buy the oil in a special bottle that acts as the pump. You fill the oil from the bottom hole until it runs out of the top hole. Then replace the top plug first and the vaccuum will keep oil from running out while you quickly replace the lower plug.
Is your motor a 3 cyl or 2 cyl?
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You have the 72 Evinrude Triumph, good motor. Starter is
eBay Motors: New Starter OMC Johnson Evinrude Marine 50-75hp 106-019 (item 130119225849 end time Jun-04-07 14:37:49 PDT) just like this....
eBay Motors: New Starter OMC Johnson Evinrude Marine 50-75hp 106-019 (item 130119225849 end time Jun-04-07 14:37:49 PDT) just like this....
I have the box open. practically fell open. The control box is a little dirty. Umm not sure about the lawnmower key, that would be great though. Did I mention the Control box wires were cut about a foot from the bx and a foot from the motor. I'm going to have to fill in the space in between.
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Sundrop you are my hero. All this great info you have on this boating stuff. When I grow up I wanna be just like you.
Oh no Coach,
you don't wanna be like me... You did the right thing. You got a college education and a career.. I have to know a little about alot just to make ends meet. Good lesson for the kids out there!! But thanks for the pat on the back!
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