The premium yak trailers can run over a grand; you can get a pretty good one for around $750 and the misers like myself get a utility trailer at HF or NT for under $300 unassembled. Add parts and labor for the budget one and it will still run close to $500, though a lot of people consider their labor to be free (they might feel differently after putting one of the kits together; I know I do). Anyway, my guess is that the sweet spot is in that $750 range. The ones over a grand handle several boats or one Hobie.
What would/could you pay.....
I see a lot of kayak and canoe guys complaining about the weight and handling their gear. I am curious what price point would work for most of you for a trailer than can carry 1 or 2 yaks and some gear. I ask because I am toying with designs and looking at materials pricing. I would have 2 models one more corrosion and rust resistant than the other. Possibly some accessories that can be added on. I know many of you don't have the time or skillset to build or modify existing trailers and some of the specialty ones I've looked at are taking advantage of the market. I would build these one at a time , with only myself and my tools/materials as overhead so I think with the right idea and right suppliers I could do this.. I have the skillset, shop, and equipment for the most part already.
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New galvanized 2 kayak trailers can be had for $799.....
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/bod/4653358363.html
I'd agree with Andy.... If you're competing on price, you need to beat the $750 point.
Your other option is to compete on quality/features... Lockable metal boxes for holding rods, Built in paddle holders that are safe for interstate travel, well designed places to put wet PFD's... etc.
I'd be concerned that a custom built trailer would be hard to title. I'd want to be able to buy it, and go directly to the title office to get a plate.
(Note: I'm not in the market for one... So my opinion is of marginal use. I priced getting a hitch receiver put onto my Ford Escape, but it's a $600 job, and that's just too much money to me).
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/bod/4653358363.html
I'd agree with Andy.... If you're competing on price, you need to beat the $750 point.
Your other option is to compete on quality/features... Lockable metal boxes for holding rods, Built in paddle holders that are safe for interstate travel, well designed places to put wet PFD's... etc.
I'd be concerned that a custom built trailer would be hard to title. I'd want to be able to buy it, and go directly to the title office to get a plate.
(Note: I'm not in the market for one... So my opinion is of marginal use. I priced getting a hitch receiver put onto my Ford Escape, but it's a $600 job, and that's just too much money to me).
I start by looking at the range of the spectrum.
The smallest Harbor Freight utility trailer is $189. Add about $200 in having somebody else do welding (guess) and you've got something around $400 that could move kayaks pretty safely to and from the launch. Getting purpose-built racks installed for 2 kayaks adds another $2-300. For that you get tiny wheels, short neck, materials that you wouldn't ever want in the water or probably within sight of saltwater.
$1200-1600 gets you a Malone Microsport, with 12" wheels, galvanized metal, ready-to-load bunks. Simple, effective, ready to go.
$2200+ gets a Yakima Rack & Roll. 16" wheels, aluminum construction, shocks, LED lights, lightweight, easy disassemble, store-on-end, yakima rack system. Lots of engineering, stylish looks and the right brand, at a cost.
None of those gets you features targeted at fishermen and especially fishermen with big, heavy kayaks and lots of gear - like a lockable equipment box, rod tube, bunk options for launching a pro-angler, extendable/swing-away tongue, riser option for a 2nd level of racks, etc... . I'd say somewhere in the $599-999 range with some thoughtful engineering & extensibility would get some attention. 4 digits could be a killer.
The smallest Harbor Freight utility trailer is $189. Add about $200 in having somebody else do welding (guess) and you've got something around $400 that could move kayaks pretty safely to and from the launch. Getting purpose-built racks installed for 2 kayaks adds another $2-300. For that you get tiny wheels, short neck, materials that you wouldn't ever want in the water or probably within sight of saltwater.
$1200-1600 gets you a Malone Microsport, with 12" wheels, galvanized metal, ready-to-load bunks. Simple, effective, ready to go.
$2200+ gets a Yakima Rack & Roll. 16" wheels, aluminum construction, shocks, LED lights, lightweight, easy disassemble, store-on-end, yakima rack system. Lots of engineering, stylish looks and the right brand, at a cost.
None of those gets you features targeted at fishermen and especially fishermen with big, heavy kayaks and lots of gear - like a lockable equipment box, rod tube, bunk options for launching a pro-angler, extendable/swing-away tongue, riser option for a 2nd level of racks, etc... . I'd say somewhere in the $599-999 range with some thoughtful engineering & extensibility would get some attention. 4 digits could be a killer.
I like the look and simplicity of this rack design. Now if you could only get the feet of the stand out of the bed of the trailer then that would maximize cargo space. I can't answer your question on cost because I'm not in the search for a trailer but I'm liking the $750 number if I was.
http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/spo/4621702411.html
http://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/spo/4621702411.html
thanks everyone that is exactly the kind of info I am looking for. These trailers would be titled by me before the sale and have a vin/serial number. So purchaser would have no worries there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ysl7BqDH8cE 2014 escape install http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1C9_DaA2RT8 2011 escape install You can find a hitch online for around $130 and any mom n pop shop should mount it for around $100-$125. Dealers and specialty shops like U-Haul are thieves
New galvanized 2 kayak trailers can be had for $799.....
http://greensboro.craigslist.org/bod/4653358363.html
I'd agree with Andy.... If you're competing on price, you need to beat the $750 point.
Your other option is to compete on quality/features... Lockable metal boxes for holding rods, Built in paddle holders that are safe for interstate travel, well designed places to put wet PFD's... etc.
I'd be concerned that a custom built trailer would be hard to title. I'd want to be able to buy it, and go directly to the title office to get a plate.
(Note: I'm not in the market for one... So my opinion is of marginal use. I priced getting a hitch receiver put onto my Ford Escape, but it's a $600 job, and that's just too much money to me).
On a previous vehicle I got a light duty hitch with a flat bar receiver that was pretty inexpensive and easy to install (bolted to existing chassis nuts). The downside was that I was pretty much committing to only the small trailer (that car was a 4 banger so that was an easy concession); not sure I would do that on an Escape.
I've never owned a hitchless vehicle. Towing something whether it's boat or utility trailers has always been on high on the priority list. Just like 4 wheel drive.
The Hobie trailers are stupidly expensive. VERY simple design. Very little materials. I'm probably going to copy cat it.
the thing to be careful about in building one or converting a utility trailer is the springs and axle. If it's sprung too high, the lightweight cargo gets a rough ride. It's like pulling an empty trailer around.
The Hobie trailers are stupidly expensive. VERY simple design. Very little materials. I'm probably going to copy cat it.
the thing to be careful about in building one or converting a utility trailer is the springs and axle. If it's sprung too high, the lightweight cargo gets a rough ride. It's like pulling an empty trailer around.
I think the Hobie trailers have unobtanium bearings... 
One thing to consider, if you are selling trailers for profit (business). You need to account for liability insurance and pay income tax on the profit, the book keeping also is an expense. If you are not a certified welder, would do so before selling product. You will want to have a lawyer put together disclaimers and such. It all adds up quickly and is just part of doing business. If a trailer you manufactured ends up failing and hurting someone, it could cost you more money than you might make in your entire life; so you need to have insurance to cover it.
The Escape is a 4cyl, rated for 1000 lbs. Got for the headroom and the gas milage (about 28mpg hwy), which i need when I put 45k miles a year on a car.
The prices have come down recently on the hitches.... When I looked 8 months ago, the cheapest I saw online for a class III (needed just for the 2" receiver, hate the convertors) was about $250, now I can get one for about $180. But there's some kind of a anti-vibration mount for the muffler on my Escape that has to be cut off, and rewelded, so the installation has been priced in the $300-400+ range everywhere.
The prices have come down recently on the hitches.... When I looked 8 months ago, the cheapest I saw online for a class III (needed just for the 2" receiver, hate the convertors) was about $250, now I can get one for about $180. But there's some kind of a anti-vibration mount for the muffler on my Escape that has to be cut off, and rewelded, so the installation has been priced in the $300-400+ range everywhere.
I thought Escapes were powered by a V6; must have them confused with something.
EDIT - Googled. "Available" V6. Didn't realize 4 was the standard on them.
EDIT - Googled. "Available" V6. Didn't realize 4 was the standard on them.
At that price it better not need bearings.I think the Hobie trailers have unobtanium bearings...
There's no welding on a HF trailer, just follwing instructions and bolting together. I bought the boat railer last year for $399. Took me about one day to put it together.
For mine and I'll use it in saltwater I'm just going painted steel. 3-4 coats of POR-15, primer, and paint. Put a grinder on POR -15 and all it does it melt it and move it around. If you need to get it off steel to do some welding.....you gotta burn it off with a torch.
Used to paint chassis on off frame restorations. Another product, that will never rust, bust, or gather dust. 30ish bucks a quart.
http://www.por15.com/
Used to paint chassis on off frame restorations. Another product, that will never rust, bust, or gather dust. 30ish bucks a quart.
http://www.por15.com/
Do guys with these trailers actually back them into the water? I guess with the weights of some of these newer SOTs it might be tempting.
I've done auto restorations, hot rods, and race cars for years, POR15 is good stuff. My variations will be according to price points and customer needs. Not everyone buys with the expectations of it lasting forever. Some, like me, look at need vs what I can spend knowing I don't keep anything long..
I can see where some may. It would let you launch loaded and ready to go. Also nice for smaller folks fighting larger craft. Kayaks are becoming a very relative term vs what the purists consider kayaks. easily exceeding 100lbs or more now before you load gear..
Do guys with these trailers actually back them into the water? I guess with the weights of some of these newer SOTs it might be tempting.
I back my trailer into the water all the time. With a Hobie PA 14 weighing 148 lbs it saves the back and is quick and easy.Do guys with these trailers actually back them into the water? I guess with the weights of some of these newer SOTs it might be tempting.
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
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